The Millennial’s Guide To Exploring Ghana
Author: TheHipmunk
This post was posted by TheHipmunk on Hipmunk’s Tailwind blog on March 14th 2016.
Akwaaba! A beautiful country with diverse ecosystems, Ghana, which translates to “Warrior King” in Mande, encompasses what were once the Colony of the Gold Coast, the Colony of Ashanti, the Protectorate of the Northern Territories, and the Trust Territory of Togoland. If you’re planning to explore this West African gem, we’ve put together a primer with need-to-know information and tips to get the most out of your trip.
Before catching your flight, make sure to get vaccinated for yellow fever. Bring the little yellow pamphlet for confirmation, as they often check at the airport, and it’s a long flight to get sent back home. If heat and humidity isn’t your thing, book a trip during the dry season (November to April).
Arriving in Accra
Ghana’s main international airport is located in the capital, Accra (home of the Black Stars, Ghana’s national soccer team). After arriving in Accra, there will be folks greeting you on your way out of baggage claim, offering to escort you to a cab. Be aware that it’s a very short walk, and there are usually plenty of cab drivers waiting in the parking lot; if you agree to follow someone to the cabs, they will expect a tip. It’s also acceptable to thank them, politely decline, and find your way to the cabs yourself. Sometimes, when a cab driver arrives at the hotel, they will say that the hotel is full and cannot take you, and will then offer to take you to another hotel where they usually receive a commission. Be sure to insist you have a reservation and that you confirmed right before traveling.
Alternatively, there are several hotels with free airport shuttle service. (Make sure to contact the hotel ahead of time and give them your itinerary.) The Golden Tulip Accra has great, affordable rates, is located close to the airport, and has an outdoor pool and casino. The Mirage Royale Hotel and the Ramada Resort, Accra Coco Beach both offer free breakfast. The Mirage is only 4.8 miles from the airport, and the Ramada is close to the coastline, making it easy to get to the popular Labadi Beach.
Going Out on the Town
To get out and see the city, it’s easy to travel by either the public tro tros or private taxi.
Tro tros travel in set routes around the city, and they’re quite cheap — ideal for travelers on a budget. They leave whenever they’re full, but the schedule quite frequent. Be sure to stay hydrated; vendors sell bags of purified water that are very cheap along the streets. The National Museum, open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., features galleries where visitors can learn about Ghana’s cultural traditions and history, with exhibits on the Ashanti Kingdom and the slave trade.
For more history, the remains of fortified trading posts from the colonial era (now UNESCO sites), built following European contact in the 15th century between 1482 and 1786, line the coast not far from downtown. Many of these forts played major roles in the transatlantic slave trade, their empty halls eerie reminders of a violent past.
Interested in shopping? The Artists Alliance Gallery is an Accra must-see for fans of traditional crafts and contemporary art. It’s located in a building on the coast on Tema Beach Road. However, a more typical (and fun, albeit intense) market experience can be had at Makola Market. Vendors set up in the streets from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., and it’s a great place to try local stews like “Hkatenkwan,” “Abenkwan,” or “Gari Foto” (if you’re vegetarian).
Exploring Kumasi
There’s a lot to see in Accra, but there’s even more to see north of the capital. For those who would rather skip the road trip and fly, Africa World Airlines makes the trip between Accra Kotoka International Airport and Kumasi Airport. For ground travel, it’s possible to take a tro tro, which is inexpensive and fun, or there are buses like VIP or STC. These buses are the most comfortable transportation, as many have air-conditioning (ask for a “luxury bus”). They do not, however, have bathrooms. Bring your own toilet paper (and a little cash) for rest stops. Taxi travel outside Accra is possible, but expensive; be sure to settle on the price before setting out.
Getting to Kumasi will take some time when traveling by road. Close to the Manhiya Palace (built in 1926 at the return of the Asantehene nana Prempeh 1 from exile), check into the Wadoma Royale Hotel, which has indoor and outdoor pools, a restaurant, and free breakfast. The Golden Tulip Kumasi City is also a convenient option. Both hotels have air conditioned rooms and pools. The Okumah Hotel includes free breakfast, kitchenette for guests to cook their finds from the market, and a restaurant — Afedua — that serves local dishes.
After settling in, head out to see the sights. Kumasi, known as The Garden City, is the ccenter of Ashanti with many beautiful, tropical plant species. Be sure to stop by some of the Ashanti temples and shrines in the area.
Kejetia Market, the largest market in West Africa, is another Kumasi must-see. With over 10,000 stalls, you’ll find colorful textiles, foods, jewelry, and spices. Bring your sense of humor and bartering skills! Next, stop by the Kumasi Zoo — known less for the zoo’s formal inhabitants, and more for the incredible colony of large fruit bats that can be seen hanging from the trees above the animal pens (easily visible from the street).
Next Stop: Tamale
Getting back on the bus (or plane), it’s time to head to Tamale.
You can check into the Asempa Lodge or Picorna Hotel, or try small, private bed and breakfasts. The central market is located at the heart of town, and like the market in Kumasi, it’s quite a feast for the senses, with bright textiles, rich spices, local vegetables and foods, and most anything you can imagine. For dinner, it’s easy to pick up some of the local cuisine in the market, or stop by Chuck’s Bar & Restaurant for cocktails and to chat with expats.
From Tamale, it’s easy to find transportation (public, or with ABACAR Tours) to Mole National Park. Not to be missed, Mole is inexpensive and accessible. Visitors can take walking safaris, or hire an all-terrain vehicle for a game drive. There’s a small motel (Mole Motel) with incredible views of the wildlife and a swimming pool.
For close encounters with the reptilian kind, take a bus to the border (easiest if you take a bus from Tamale to Bolgatanga first). In Paga, close to Burkina Faso, the local community maintains a sacred crocodile pond. The crocs are believed to hold the souls of the village ancestors, and are protected and regularly fed by the village residents. Visitors may feed and touch the expectant, massive reptiles if they dare.
A quick tip: If you eat traditional cuisine in a small setting, it is not unusual for folks to eat with their hands. Never eat with your left hand, and be sure to rinse your hands with some water before eating. With those etiquette tips in mind, there are manydelicious cuisines in Ghana. Try jollof rice, which includes tomatoes, spices, rice, and meat, or some of the local stews, which are (delicious) often served with fufu. Fufu is like dough made of pounded root vegetable used to scoop up stew, like an edible ladle.
Getting ready to go home, it’s easy to either take buses from city to city, or take one long ride all the way back to Accra. The night bus arrives in the wee hours, just in time for street vendors to open their stalls for breakfast!
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